ALEXANDER MCQUEEN RESORT 2013

David Bowie’s 1970s style rang true throughout the Alexander McQueen Resort 2013 collection. Designer, Sarah Burton, who can claim a personal connection to the man himself connected with the Bowie of the mid-seventies, when he was at his most visually extreme.

After a few seasons of showing little other than intensely detailed and ‘sickly-sweet’ feminine pieces, Burton said she that she “Wanted to bring everything back to the body.” Proportions in the McQueen Resort line were extreme; high waits, elongated legs and peaked shoulders prevailed. Generously lapelled, torso-hugging blazers were teamed with lean, boot-cut trousers.

The Alexander McQueen Resort 2013 collection was harder and more masculine than previous Burton collections; the anchor of the line was the trouser suit. Harsh masculine shapes were made beautiful with extraordinary fabrics and painstaking embroideries. Art Deco was sighted as an inspiration, with a long, lean suit crafted in a metallic jacquard and iridescent dragonfly motifs embellished much of the collections standout looks. The most outstanding ensembles from the McQueen Resort collection were the rigidly tailored black pieces. Wide belts cinched in waits and moved the collection away from the ultra-masculine and accentuated the female form.

The Resort eveningwear was also treated in the same instance. Metallic belts sat on top of floor-length and equally lean gowns. A strapless jumpsuit was full of a subtle volume and finished with delicate avian embroideries. A strapless maxi dress in a vivacious orange jersey harked back to the most extreme of Bowie ensembles from the 1970s.

Excluding belts, accessories were sparse. A small boxy black clutch made a fleeting appearance, as well as a stark white satchel. The shoes had round and transparent heels were filled with glitter – adding yet another feminine detail to an overtly masculine line.

- Ellen Stewart
- Photos courtesy of Alexander McQueen