ANN DEMEULEMEESTER | FALL / WINTER 2012

Long leather gloves, wader boots and plenty of black showed that fashion purist Ann Demeulemeester has a steadfast consistency when it comes to her designs.

Models took to the darkened catwalk with hair crafted into perilously tall spikes, swathed in coats of heavy fabrics with architecturally high collars, diagonal zips and buckles. But the punk influences became softened by a more feminine silhouette.

Simple tunics and long silk dresses were worn over leggings and boots, while voluminous jackets and layered skirts were cinched in at the waist. Even the leather gloves, which could have been austere and tough, had a touch of elegance to them worn above the elbow with a sleeveless dress.

Flashes of midnight blue in luxe fabrics of shiny satin and suede broke up the dark collection, as skirts split to the thigh and a one-shouldered dress brought a touch of grown-up sophistication to this romantically gothic show.

- Victoria Haswell