BARBARA I GONGINI | FALL / WINTER 2011

Welcome to the other-worldly designs of Barbara I Gongini, Copenhagen’s emerging ‘avant-goth designer.’ The Danish designer defines her work as “dark avant-garde,” and from perusing her latest Fall / Winter 2011 collection, one can see why. The fashion designer divides her work into two collections, the Main Line, which is deemed highly experimental and the Black Line, a collection that is slightly less radical and extreme. Both of these collections are continuously produced in collaboration with photographers, filmmakers and musicians, which allows the line between fashion and art to become substantially blurred.

The Fall / Winter’11 collection conjures up the idea of the other; another life-form, another world, another existence. Although Gongini’s designs are so innovative and unique, one can still forage amongst the fashion-forward silhouettes and fish out the new trends that will be hitting the colder months later this year. One can distinguish aesthetically poetic fringing amongst the heavy drapery of the material. Cut-out knees and asymmetric hemlines compliment the out-of-this world feel promoted by the layered material and dark, muted tones encompassed within Gongini’s colour palette.

Gongini’s chosen accessories effortlessly compliment this ethereal feel demonstrated by the collection. Legs are encased in thick grey tights and leggings, stack heeled boots provide height and longevity and a modern touch to these contemporary concepts. Simple pendants hang from the models’ necks, highlighting the little-need for jewellery trend established by this collection, suggesting the complexity of the drapery and fabric juxtaposition is dramatic enough in itself. Gongini herself, describes that this collection is inspired by the ‘90s and Japanese fashion designers’ and they are ‘centred on deconstructed shapes in all shades of black.

It is believed that during the creative process, these designs started as square forms. Gongini then creates a silhouette where sharp edges and corners disappear completely, due to her choice of natural materials, including organic cotton and wool, lamb leather, goat skin and last Fall / Winter’2010 trend: fur. Gongini pays close attention to in-house production. Her dedication to recycling and fair trade has even earned her a nomination for the Danish Danish Fashion Aware Committee’s 2010 Ethical Award. Fashion forward and ethical, what more could you want from a collection?

- Sarah Tippett