Bora Aksu Spring/Summer 2013
Turkish-born deigner Bora Aksu set up his namesake label upon graduating from his MA at Central Saint Martins. The main inspiration for his Spring/Summer 2013 collection came from Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, Marie, who became the Queen of Romania in 1922. “The way she embraced traditional Romanian culture without losing her sense of Englishness led to a lot of beautiful references,” Aksu said. “As well as her style and charisma, inspiration for Spring/Summer 2013 came from the love she had for her botanical garden in Balchik.”
The front row saw the likes of Kelly Brook and singer, Kate Nash eager to discover what the designer had in mind for Spring/Summer 2013. The collection was awash with chiffon, lace and an air of the regal.
Models stomped down the runway with striking felt crowns atop their heads. While the wearers may have been traversing the runway with a boyish swagger the clothes were far from masculine. Bora Aksu Spring/Summer 2013 is truly a line for the girls – and the very girly ones at that. The washed out colour palette harked to water colours, as did the wispy paint stroke prints. His signature bows were sheer and tied at the back of voluminous dresses and had an air of ‘Alice in Wonderland’ about them. Simply and light-weight jackets caressed the shoulders of the Aksu woman, with lots of layers and ruffles adding an almost petticoat look to many of the collection’s standout dresses.
Halfway through the show, presented at London Fashion Week, a golden mustard was introduced; a long necktie was set off against a pale lilac and completely sheer blouse which was tucked tightly in at the waist to a skirt of that signature mustard colour. To follow a show-stopping floor-length gown in flowing gold drapes played upon the themes of royalty and looked remarkably like the garbs of some ancient empress – or goddess.
Other than the ultra-feminine dresses, the collection was wholly wearable and sweet fabric collars came as an accessory to a number of looks. Rosy knitwear and waist cinching belts were teamed up with boxy yet elegant clutches to top of the Spring/Summer 2013 line. The floaty whimsy which was so prominent at the start of the show made way for a more demure look, with pencil skirts and shift dresses taking command.
Aksu, who plans to launch his first bag collection in conjunction with Bracher Emden with exclusive styles for Harrods this autumn, names his trademark piece as the cocktail dress, and this season we weren’t disappointed by it’s striking image shimmying down the runway. Bora Aksu certainly knows his girl and we’re already excited to see what the coming seasons will bring.
– Ellen Stewart