FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO

Creatures of the deep were the main source of inspiration for Francesco Scognamiglio’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2010/11, and we’re not talking about Ariel and Flounder. Eerie crystal-encrusted eels and serpents twist around necks and waists in the form of chunky collar necklaces and heavily jewelled belts.

The streamlined forms of aquatic creatures are mirrored in Scognamiglio’s silhouettes, with coats, dresses and shirts curving from collar to elbow in a smooth, submarine-esque arc. Elsewhere, ripples and folds of fabric echo delicately undulating fins, structurally informed by Scognamiglio’s other source of inspiration, early Azzedine Alaïa. Sheer knits with crochet detailing and a twinklingly textured PVC dress recall shimmering scales while the palette of black and soda-pop pastels bring to mind the spectacular light and shade of ocean life – think mysterious caves and sparkling reefs.

For such a lavishly conceptual collection, and considering that this is a designer who has dressed Lady Gaga on more than one occasion (her triple-tiered, full-length white cloak at this year’s Brit Awards and much of the infamous video for her song Alejandro, to name just two) there are some very wardrobe-ready pieces to be found. A peachy pink coat-dress with crystal-encrusted religious motif buttons adds an edgy glamour to the prim ladylike looks that featured on many runways for this season. Even more desirable, however, are the snugly shearling aviator coats and jackets in glossy black leather.

In terms of accessories, a particularly lust-inducing pair of black python ankle boots have set pulses racing. The gold architectural heel takes the form of menacing sea creature with Swarovski scales. In April this year Scognamiglio signed an agreement with Lerre SRL who will produce his designs for international distribution. The first collection of twenty five models will be shown during the Spring/Summer 2011 season in Milan. Book flights now!

- Louise Black

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