This Central Saint Martins graduate has been named the one to watch in recent years. Winner of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award 2010/11, Hermione de Paula was awarded her own solo catwalk show during London Fashion Week.
Known for her distinctive hand-drawn and painted elements, De Paula continued the romanticism and rose prints for which she is renowned throughout her Spring/Summer ‘Flora’s Illuminate’ collection, but adds a harder edge by finishing pieces with denim and mohair.
All her creations expose the wearer’s fragility and elegance of being a woman, but with a twist. Each collection is inspired by an unconventional female muse, reflecting their sensuality. This year, De Paula based her collection on the sexual awakening of Flora, the goddess of flowers.
The collection features a slightly shorter, tighter look than previous seasons, focussing on the hip and chest area. Her inspiration was forced femininity, using clever geometry and bodices to create a silhouette of an impossibly skinny waist and juxtaposing it with greatly exaggerated breasts and hips. The collection was designed to highlight society’s pressure on women today.
Sultry, loose chiffons also made their way down the catwalk and silky sheer materials in delicate lilacs and pinks emphasised the romanticism. Tulip skirts featured heavily and her key floral pieces tended to be monochrome this time around.
Many of the pieces emphasised the shoulders, either using detailed embellishment or cutaways in the material to expose the skin. The girly pieces were toughtened up with pieces of rough denim and black mesh, which was added to floor-length dresses in contrast to the pretty opaque material and adding to the element of sexuality. The pieces were contrasted with black and orange jumpsuits and the models stode down the runway with contrasting heels by Nicholas Kirkwood and black, brown and nude socks.
– Lauren Bell