MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA | SPRING / SUMMER 2012

Maison Martin Margiela is as well known for his anonymity as he is for his unwavering focus on the deconstruction of clothing. Since he started working at Jean Paul Gauiter in 1988, the Belgian designer has never been interviewed or photographed by the media.

His collections are avant garde and extreme and this season was no different. His take on deconstruction for Spring / Summer 2012 was obvious with one model having to hold up her dress as she walked down the catwalk. Another’s legs appeared to be bound in netting and clear plastic sheaths covered some of the dresses.

The undone silk dresses, bed head hair and patterned carpets gave the audience the almost voyeuristic feeling of having stumbled into the model’s bedrooms. Maison Martin Margiela played around with leather creating skirts unzipped from the bottom and leather capes. Sheer fabrics were taken to the extreme, the nude colour gave the impression that the models were topless. Halfway through the show the models came out in dresses made from the oriental rugs underneath their feet. The oriental dresses and jacket made sensational eye catching pieces that seemed reminiscent of the Beatles Sergeant Pepper jackets.

Maison Martin Margiela took his focus on deconstruction further by tailoring men’s clothing to fit women. The loose fabrics and high necks made it unclear whether the models were wearing their shirts on back to front and gave the impression of straightjackets. This collection focused on the contrast between tight swaddling clothing and loose unfitted masculine pieces and the Belgian designer impressed again creating pieces that verged on art.

- Emma Smee