MARC JACOBS | RESORT 2012

Capitalising on the preppy cool that has made Marc Jacobs into a household name, this collection amps up the idea of casual by expressing bold motifs with a washed-out nonchalance.

Large moss green and navy paisley prints that would just as easily look at home on the walls of a country manor are featured on everything from micro shorts to jumpsuits and sweetheart neckline prom dresses showing that this collection is suitable for tomboys, dancing queens and retro lovers.

With perhaps as a nod to his Daisy fragrance line, Jacobs included an array of washed out, sequined grey daisy micro-print dresses, shorts and jumpsuits.

A certain utilitarian aesthetic was running underneath: from the shade of army green to the buttoned-up white shirts, double denim and neat tailoring of the jackets and shorts. Yet this was saved from looking too strict by the regular additions of informal striped sweatshirts and canvas pumps.

Indeed, this juxtaposition was best exemplified in one of the more irreverent pieces – a hot pink diaphanous tutu with appliqué flowers was paired with a grey marl sweatshirt that was pushed up to the elbow evoking a relaxed aesthetic.

Jacobs took pains to avoid getting stuck in a retro rut. Sandals, dresses and tank tops were embellished with oversized metal studs that both complemented and toughened these bold prints. Along the same lines, flashes of neon lipstick added a rebellious air. Creating the ultimate in futuristically feminine dressing, Jacobs offered a dress and skirt/top combo made from layer upon layer of laser cut faux leather flowers.

Displaying a louche, relaxed femininity, this collection took prides in its youthful ability to mix deeply feminine pieces with more unisex garments to create a look that’s playfully considered but not overworked.

- Catherine McColl