Rochambeau Spring/Summer 2012
Rochambeau has come a long way since its debut in 2008. Now represented in boutiques worldwide and at their own e-commerce site, it is no wonder that the design duo Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler have garnered increasing critical acclaim and press coverage for their symbolic collections. Now showing at New York fashion week, Rochambeau is admired for its androgynous, contemporary and challenging designs.
The Spring Summer 2012 collection (described by Cooper and Chandler in one word as “gritty”) urges the wearer to connect with the clothes not only as a garment but within himself. Exaggerated in length, sleeves and trousers have to be adjusted by the wearer for an individually stylised ruched effect at wrist and ankle.
Textures were mixed and contrasted. Drapes in tops and waterfall-esque pleats on trousers were offset by rigid collarless shirts or simple jerseys. Translucent tops were interrupted by opaque panels in the same colour which gave the loose fabric a structural, architectural feel. Sleek, streamlined jackets featured leather lapels – a fabric which also appeared as a chic waistcoat perfect for layering.
Rochambeau played with the balance of the body as tops and jackets crept below hip level to lengthening effect. Trousers were loose and often in a contemporary harem style or in a wide legged a-line, at three quarter length.
The palette in navy, black, grey and cream gave the collection a unity which in its design and technique called for contrast. Natural, bodily curves juxtaposed constructed, decisive lines which subtly convey the individuality allowed by this collection.
– Rachel McCulloch